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The Philippines is at fault for my current lifestyle.
The part I can't explain is standing somewhere in this country on what was supposed to be one of my last days there, and understanding with total clarity that I'm not going back to the life I had before. Not as a dramatic revelation. More like checking the weather and realizing the season changed.
The world is genuinely beautiful. People are genuinely kind. You can live well, eat well, move through extraordinary places surrounded by people who are happy to see you, and pay a fraction of what it costs to sit in Sacramento doing nothing in particular. That math doesn't unhappen once you've seen it.
In March 2025, somewhere in the Philippines, I made a decision: keep going. No fixed plan. No return date. Just movement through the world the way humans did for thousands of years before collectively and rather recently deciding that was not responsible behavior.
I came back twice more after that. Stayed long enough on one trip to get a photo ID card, which is what happens when you overstay past sixty or ninety days and have to deal with your visa situation in person. Still worth it.
If you go and stay more than a couple of weeks, you'll understand what I mean. Stay a month and you'll understand why I kept coming back.
Before you plan anything, read this: The Philippines is not a place to rush. Transportation is chaotic. Things will not go according to plan. Ferries will be late, schedules will be approximate, and the people who bounce through seven islands in ten days quickly realize its simply not possible and leave feeling drained because they missed the point. If you're on a tight timeline, pick two or three islands and go deep. The beauty here doesn't come from coverage. It comes from slowing down enough to actually be somewhere.
Tours are often al a carte. The kayak or paddleboard is extra, snorkeling is extra, environmental fees (Typically equivalent to like .50c) at random inconveniences whether island hopping, take a ferry, a plane, etc, these are just little things that are part of the Philippines so just expect it, embrace it and be okay going slow. It’s not a race.
Weather: The Thing Most Travelers (and AI Search) Get Wrong
The Philippines does not have one climate. Booking a trip without understanding which season applies to where you're going is how people end up in a monsoon on what was supposed to be a beach vacation and even being without electricity for up to 4 weeks where deep sea divers need to fix the cables. (Yes, this happened while I was there).
The simple version: March through May is Filipino summer. Hot, dry, and the one window where you can land almost anywhere in the country and expect decent weather. That's the safe play if you have flexibility.
Outside that, the country splits. A useful rule: northern islands in winter, southern islands in summer. Although with some caveats in the southwest. I know, confusing.
The northern and western islands, Luzon, Palawan, El Nido, Coron, run on a clean dry/wet divide. Dry season is November through April. December through February is legitimately excellent for Palawan. Wet season hits May through October and it means it.
Siargao runs opposite. The same northeast winds that make Palawan great in winter slam the east-facing coast with rain. January is the single wettest month on the island. The window you actually want for Siargao is April through October, with the best surf peaking August through November off Pacific swells. Although most of the year, you can find good surfing somewhere near Siargao.
Around Siquijor, in the central Visayas, is the most forgiving of the bunch. It's sheltered enough that you can have great weather most of the year. When rain comes it's usually a short afternoon burst, not an all-day wash-out. No hard rules here, it just depends on the week, so can be added into whatever itinerary you’re going for.
Typhoon season runs June through November and tracks mostly through Luzon and the northern Visayas. The further south you go, the less exposure. Worth knowing if you're planning a longer trip.
An even easier list for breakdown:
- Type I: Two pronounced seasons; dry from November to April and wet during the rest of the year. Common in western parts of Luzon, Mindoro, Negros, and Palawan.
- Type II: No dry season, with a very pronounced maximum rainfall from November to January. Experienced in eastern regions like Catanduanes, Samar, and eastern Mindanao.
- Type III: Seasons are not very pronounced; relatively dry from November to April and wet for the rest of the year. Found in parts of Cagayan, Isabela, and Palawan.
- Type IV: Rainfall is more or less evenly distributed throughout the year. Common in areas like Batanes, Metro Manila, and most of Central and Southern Mindanao
FLIGHTS: A Few Things Worth Knowing First
SE Asian airlines work a little differently than what most Western travelers are used to, and the budget carriers especially will catch you off guard if you're not paying attention.
Two things to know before you book. First: checked baggage allowance works by total weight across all your bags, not per bag. Depending on the airline. If you purchase 20kg and you're checking two bags, both bags together have to come in under 20kg. Western carriers typically give you a set weight per individual bag, so if you're used to that system this will get you. Weigh everything before you leave for the airport.
Second: your carry-on and personal item combined cannot exceed 7kg. Not each. Together. That is basically nothing, and certain airlines will physically weigh them at the gate. AirAsia will do it. Cebu Pacific is more inconsistent. Philippines Airlines tends to be more relaxed. Know which airline you're on and pack accordingly, or just check everything and stop fighting it.
These carriers also don't include checked luggage by default when you book. Read what you're actually purchasing.
I'll add this: I got pulled aside at the gate by someone in a security uniform, not an airline employee, just someone positioned in the security line, who told me my bag was too heavy (simply by lifting it up) and that I needed to pay an additional fee at the counter before I could board. They even announce it at the gate that if people have heavier luggage than 7kg and many locals go up and voluntarily weigh at the gate and pay. I used my white privilege to maximum capacity, and walked onto the plane like I knew what I was doing. Sometimes you gotta use it. If this happens to you, don't engage and don't pay. Keep moving. Your mileage may vary, but I did this about 4 times haha
A note on food: The Philippines is not known for great restaurant food, which is strange because Filipino home cooking is genuinely excellent. If you ever get invited to eat with a local family, say yes immediately. For some reason that doesn't translate to most restaurants. There are exceptions, mostly in Siargao, and I'll flag them when we get there. Also, its common to eat with your hands here. Don’t forget to try the Mango Float dessert. Incredible. And remember, “rice is life”.
Manila
The dirty yet must visit city
This is where you start, and it's worth staying longer than you think. Manila is a chaotic sprawl of terrible traffic, good bars, and some questionable after-hours decisions. But it's also the best information hub in the country. Every hostel is full of people who just came from somewhere or are about to leave for somewhere, and within a few conversations you'll have a rough sketch of the next two months.
Neighborhoods
- Makati / Poblacion — Where the action is. A bit trashy in a mostly good way, as long as you go in with the mindset of knowing what you’re getting into.
- BGC (Bonifacio Global City) — Cleaner, safer, more upscale. Best food and shopping. Could be any American city.
- Venice Grand Canal mall. - Great Airbnbs here with a cheesy take on Caesars Palace in Vegas.
Safety note: Manila nightlife is fine if you stay aware. The Philippines has more ladyboys than Thailand and, unlike Thailand, they generally don't volunteer that information. The shoulder height rule exists for a reason, however it’s not absolute. When in doubt, ask a local Filipino. This isn't something to be paranoid about but it is something to know, especially late at night in Makati. They also are no stranger to committing crimes tricking tourists. No hate, it’s just common facts and more info on this will be for another story time.
Hostel bar hack: You don't have to stay at a hostel to use one. If a hostel has a bar and a pool, you can book an Airbnb/hotel nearby, show up, and socialize. A lot of people do this. Nobody checks. First learned this in Coron, used it everywhere after. Mad Monkey in Manila is the spot.
Where I stayed
Mad Monkey Hostel (Private Room)
Hostel2 nights
Good energy, the social scene is real, worth a pregame before heading out
Z-Hostel
HostelStay
I didn't stay here, but hear great things
Hotel 1898
HotelStay
Center of everything and near hostels for socializing
Condo in Makati or BGC
Airbnb4 nights
You can find great Airbnbs all over for about $40/night
Coron
Limestone Cliff and Water Heaven
Coron town is a nice little island town. People are great. I even had police officers stopping me to simply say hi.
Have cash ready to pay a nominal environmental fee (Common in Philippines).
The main reason you’re here though. The island hopping.
The island hopping is the best in the Philippines, possibly among the best anywhere. The underwater visibility, the color of the water, the general beauty of the whole thing, it earns every superlative thrown at it. Do the Ultimate Tour or whatever the equivalent is called when you're there. Do it even if you're continuing to El Nido. I did mine through Outpost Hostel.
Must-Do
- Island Hopping (Ultimate Tour) — Non-negotiable
- Shipwreck Diving — Some of the best wreck diving in the world. I'm open water certified and skipped it because I hadn't dived in a while and lost my nerve. I am still mad about this. Worth noting: I was told they'll often let you do portions of the wreck even without advanced certification. Just ask. Don't be me.
- Mount Tapyas — Good sunset hike. Functions when hungover.
If you don’t do the expedition tour, you can get on a ferry on Bookaway.com. Typically only one per day at 730am.
CORON TO EL NIDO EXPEDITION: The Pirate Experience
Three nights on a boat from Coron to El Nido, stopping at private islands, sleeping in huts, eating from the ocean. One of the genuinely great things you can do anywhere in the world. I skipped it because I didn't know about it the first time through. That was a mistake, but here’s what I know.
Tour Options
- Tao — The original operator. Well-run, more expensive, skews toward couples and honeymoon energy.
- Outpost / Castaway — More social, more drinks, more chaos. Less curated. More fun.
You will go through more rum than expected.
Where I stayed
Outpost Hostel (Private Room)
Hostel4 nights
The social hub of Coron. Stay here or just show up and use the bar and pool. Both work.
El Nido
Lagoons and Late Nights
El Nido is one of my favorite places in the world. I mean that without any qualification. The town itself is incredible, the surrounding water is some of the most magical scenery I've ever seen, and the overall vibe is the kind of thing that makes you cancel plans you didn't know you had.
It's going to get overrun. Arguably it already has started. The one saving grace is the airport: getting here is still a pain, and that friction is the only thing keeping the crowds manageable. If they ever make it easy to fly directly into El Nido, it's game over. Go now.
One practical note if you're working remotely: you need the Starlink Airbnb. Connectivity on the island is rough otherwise and you will lose your mind trying to get anything done. The accommodation I've linked below has it sorted.
Tours
- Tour A and Tour C — The fan favorites. Lagoons, snorkeling, beautiful beach stops. Do both.
- Private Boat Tour — If you've got the numbers, this is the move for more freedom. Hostels can obviously arrange as well.
Where I stayed
Outpost Hostel (private room)
Hostel3 nights
Views are insane. Little far from main town, but cheap to get there with tuktuk or a long walk.
Frendz or Happiness (both popular and social)
HostelStay
Logistics
- Don't skip
- Eat here
- Rideshare
- TukTuks (Super cheap and not tons of haggling needed)
Boracay
Beautiful, Chaotic, Handle With Care
Locals will tell you this is their favorite island in the Philippines. The beaches back that up. Some of the best you'll see anywhere. The rest of it is very touristy, more than anywhere else on this list, and the nightlife can get sketchy on the ladyboy front late at night if you’re alone on the beach. Getting groped by ladyboys while walking alone happened on numerous occasions out of nowhere.
Things to Know
- Beach safety — Security patrols the beach at night for a reason. Walk in groups after dark or just don’t be blacked out along the beach lol. If you're the type to wander off alone when drunk (like me), just know the risk exists.
- Kitesurfing — This is where Boracay actually earns it. Steady wind, massive community, ideal conditions.
- Boat Tours — The sunset party boat with Frendz was super fun.
- iPass Hack — Everyone assumes it's a scam. It is not. Use Boracay iPass at the port and skip 45 minutes of bureaucratic chaos. Nobody uses it because they're used to wasting the time. Classic Philippines.
- Exit Bar - You’ll have unlimited fun here every night.
Cebu
Moalboal and Kawasan Falls
Moalboal
- Sardine Run — A moving wall of sardines you can see just by snorkeling off the beach. I did it as a scuba dive with a photographer for $110 total (three dives plus photos). My weight was off, my goggles kept fogging, and I basically spent the whole dive being a liability. Didn't get the photos I wanted. Still worth doing. I'll go back and do it right. Book through Amigos Dive Center.
- Kawasan Falls Canyoning — The best single experience I had in the Philippines. Cliff jumping, swimming through canyons, and the longest zipline in the country as the entry point. Do this.
- Getting There — Private transfer from Cebu City, around $60. The public bus exists, but its genuinely miserable and you’ll be packed in like the sardines you’ll be seeing. They also run over dogs pretty commonly, so just expect that.
- Leaving - I took a private car from Moalboal through 12Go to the port of Oslob to get to Panglao on the roughest seas I experienced there.
- I skipped Oslob Whale Sharks because its genuinely terrible for their habitat. They feed them way too much and it has messed with their migration patterns.
Malapascua
- Thresher Shark Dives — Everyone calls it a top-five Philippines experience. I haven't done it yet. On my next visit though.
Cebu City
- I used this as a brief work hub for a few days, but the nightlife is supposed to be quite the vibe. If you want to vibe with the city locals, this is the place.
Bohol / Panglao
Great Diving
A lot of people call Bohol the most livable place in the Philippines. The kind of spot where people stop traveling and just... stay. I believe it. I also went during Chinese New Year, which meant the island was loaded with families and the energy was nothing like the rest of the country. That is not a knock on anyone. It just wasn't the vibe I was looking for, and I know I need to go back and actually experience it properly.
Get on a scooter and ride to the mainland. The drive out to Bohol proper is half the point. Jungle on both sides, kids waving from villages as you pass through, genuinely some of the warmest people you'll encounter anywhere. Go see the Tarsiers. They are straight up aliens and they're absolutely worth the ride, even though the visit will probably be about 30 minutes at most. Stop at a waterfall or two on the way.
The Chocolate Hills are fine. Honestly nothing special. The best version of them is seeing them roll by while you're driving, not standing at the giant viewpoint everyone gets bussed to. Skip that. Go to alternative viewpoint I marked below instead which had literally not a single tourist.
And also, explore some epic waterfalls!
The diving is the real reason to come. Top notch. Sea turtles, banded sea kraits, fish everywhere. Best marine wildlife I saw in the Philippines.
Where I stayed
Logistics
- Don't skip
Siargao
The "Bali" of Philippines?
Now because Siargao is typically the last destination on the itinerary, you may end up here during rainy season between November and February. When I say rainy, I mean it's NON STOP. Waves are also great during this time though, hence why this is also when its busy season.
Siargao is surfer central. A rotating cast of travelers and digital nomads, unpredictable energy from week to week.
You'll book a week and want three. You'll stay three and want to leave. By week four you're still there because it finally stopped raining, or you just got decent at surfing, or you met someone, or someone you know just arrived. This is the Siargao Curse. I stayed seven weeks and came back the following year for "4 days" that turned into constant extensions. I am not immune.
I have a love/hate relationship with this island. Doesn't stop me from going back. The partying, the water, the pure island vibes are magic.
I'll be honest though: It can be slightly cliquey in a way the rest of the Philippines isn't. Slightly less of the open warmth you'll find on every other islands. Locals have real frustrations with certain groups of migrants building the place in their own image instead of respecting what was already there.
That conversation can be had somewhere else on this blog. For now: just know the energy is different, manage your expectations, and go for the surf, the food, and the parties (best food and cocktails of any island).
However, I say this as someone with loads of friends here and as someone who can’t ever leave and have even considered staying long term. That’s whats so odd about it. One day you are over it and getting island fever, the next day you can’t imagine leaving. I thought I was the only one with this feeling, but I’ve talked to many others about it. Siargao Curse truly is something to behold.
Because the population is so small, you'll find a much higher rate of foreigners here. Especially us men. Higher rate of competition when it comes to the love life too. Just a fact compared to the rest of the islands.
HOWEVER - a secret I shouldn't tell: it's different in summer. From June to September the local Filipinos are on vacation. Done with school, graduated, island hopping while the foreigners aren't around. This has become my favorite time to travel there. Best weather, and not drowned out with foreigners. Funny that the "busy season" in Siargao is technically when the weather is worst. I prefer hanging with the locals.
What to Do
- Surf
- Eat smoothie bowls
- Get on a scooter and ride north with no destination
- Tri Island Tour and Sohoton Cave: both must-dos
- Port of Del Carmen: just show up and pick a boat. Sugba Lagoon plus a couple of islands. These tours are wildly underutilized. You might have a whole island to yourself. Nobody seems to tell you this.
- Springs and natural pools up north, mostly ignored by tourists
- Pacifico
- Scuba diving is available, but known more for the free diving.
Surf Spots (check with locals for conditions and skill-level match)
- Jacking Horse by Cloud 9 — Can have a heavy current, good for beginners
- Ocean 9
- Secret Spot — My favorite, may be out of season depending on timing
- Daku
- Pacifico
Food
I’ve spent about 2 months here in total. I could go all day on food options and other things, but it’s changing so rapidly it may be outdated in a month so take my recommendations knowing they could change on the fly.
Logistics
- Eat here
- CEV (Simply do not skip this)Food Lab Snack Shack (Incredible Vegan Vietnamese, trust me)Amon CafeManu (World Class Cocktails)WHITE BEARD COFFEEHalika Ice Cream 🤤The Island DeliAmia's Pizza (Expect a long line always)SanabowlSecretoBackside BurgerWildSurfing Temple (Remote work, Hostel, Food)ShakaThe Ohm Café: All-Day Dining & Poolside CocktailsSurfing Temple
- Car rental
- Morenta Scooter Rental or L'Sevilla Vehicle Rental Siargao (N-Max)Open →
Siquijor
Witch Island
This is the island thats still relatively “undiscovered”.
Laid-back, slightly mystical, genuinely beautiful. Most people who go call it the most beautiful island in the Philippines.
Rent a scooter. Find waterfalls. Do a beach picnic with no plan. It's quiet during the week and surprisingly social on weekends.
One things to take into consideration is I did get my scooter robbed and lost my drone and cameras. Wasn’t the end of the world (thank god for insurance), but know its a risk. It’s the only place that’s happened to me in the Philippines although I wouldn’t say its in any way dangerous or that its common. Locals were extremely surprised and blamed the other Filipinos who are moving to the island.
The Next Islands to Visit
The ones I didn't make it to yet
Camiguin
Apparently far less touristy with loads of volcanoes and incredible sand banks
Apo island
Legendary Diving
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